Lace-Up

Laces pass through pairs of eyelets and let you set a different tension at each pair. You can go looser over a high instep and snugger at the ankle to pin the heel down. No other closure offers that zone-by-zone control, which is why nearly every serious walking, running and work shoe uses it. Five to seven eyelet pairs is typical; more pairs mean finer control and slower entry.

On dress shoes the lacing arrangement carries a formality code. Closed lacing stitches the eyelet facings under the vamp, the panel covering the top of the foot. That produces a sleek V that suits tailoring. Open lacing stitches the facings on top of the vamp, sits roomier over the instep, and reads more casual. Fit follows the same split: open lacing spreads wider, so high insteps usually find it more comfortable.

In wear, laces stretch slightly and settle, so retie rather than tolerate a loosening shoe through the day. Entry is the slowest of any closure, a real consideration for a boot you remove often. Frayed laces cost little and take a minute to swap, which makes this the cheapest closure to keep working indefinitely.

Two fixes solve most lace-up complaints. Heel lifting has a standard cure: use the top eyelet as a lock. Thread each lace back into the hole on its own side to make a small loop. Then cross the ends through the opposite loops before you pull. For a sore spot on the top of your foot, skip the eyelet pair sitting over it and carry on lacing above. Failure usually starts at the hardware rather than the lace. Metal eyelets can tear out of thin uppers. Press one with a thumbnail and reject any that moves in its hole.