Women's Paperbag Shorts

The waistband on a paperbag short finishes two to three inches below the top edge of the garment, and the fabric above it is gathered so it stands up in a soft frill, like the folded top of a paper bag. Rise, meaning the distance from crotch seam to waist edge, usually runs 12 to 14 inches, well above the navel. Belt loops sit under the frill rather than on it, which is how you spot the construction in a photograph.

Gathering only works in cloth that folds without bulk. Rayon, Tencel, cotton poplin and light linen blends collapse into fine pleats, while thick twill turns the same gathers into a stiff ring that adds inches at the waist. Since volume starts at the top, the leg flares out instead of skimming. So these run wider through the hip and seat than the size chart suggests.

Set them beside tailored shorts and the trade is obvious. A flat front keeps a clean line under a tucked shirt, while this waist insists on being seen. Bermuda shorts put their whole character at the hem and leave the waist plain. Linen shorts are named for a fiber and can be cut either way. Of the four, only the paperbag dictates what you wear on top, because any hem falling past the waistband hides the frill and leaves you standing in a lump of gathered cloth.

A waist noticeably narrower than your hip gets the most from the shape, since the frill exaggerates that difference. Carrying weight through the midsection works against it for the same reason. Warm casual days, travel and outdoor events suit them well. Offices do not, because a gathered elastic waist with a fabric tie reads as relaxed however good the cloth is.

Even gathers, stitched down into the waist seam rather than left loose to bunch, separate a good pair from a cheap one. Tug the tie: it needs to be long enough to knot twice and stay knotted, and self-fabric ties hold better than flat ribbon. When pressing, run the iron over the leg and the flat waistband only and steam the frill upright from underneath, since ironing the gathers flat destroys the one detail you paid for.