Smart Deadbolt
Replaces the entire deadbolt inside and out, and drives a full one inch bolt with a motor.
Also called: motorized deadbolt, full replacement smart lock, electronic deadbolt
The basics
What to know about Smart Deadbolt
Both halves of the lock come out and both halves get replaced. Outside you fit a plate carrying the keypad, reader or cylinder. Inside you fit a housing holding the motor, the gearbox and four AA cells; between them runs a new bolt. Standard North American door prep suits it: a 2-1/8 inch (54 mm) cross bore through the face, a 1 inch edge bore, and a backset of 2-3/8 or 2-3/4 inches (60 or 70 mm) that most models switch between. Budget 20 to 40 minutes with a Phillips screwdriver.
Replacing everything is what separates this from a Retrofit Deadbolt Adapter, which reuses your existing cylinder and can only ever be as good as the lock underneath. A Keypad Deadbolt is often the same body with the radios left out. A Smart Lever Handle holds a spring latch instead of a bolt, so it never reaches this level of resistance. Because you choose the whole assembly here, you also choose its rating, its bolt length and whether a keyway exists at all.
Owners of a front door make the clearest case, especially when several people need their own way in and the old lock is due anyway. Going fully keyless removes picking and bumping from the list of ways in, at the price of never being able to open the door with a dead battery and nothing else. Skip this style in a rental unless your landlord agrees in writing, and skip it on a door thicker than 1-3/4 inches (44 mm) without checking for an extension kit.
Check the ANSI/BHMA grade, the North American durability and force standard: Grade 1 for an exposed entry, Grade 2 for most homes, Grade 3 only indoors. A 1 inch bolt throw is the number that matters more than the finish. Ask for the operating temperature range if the door faces weather, look for a physical tamper alarm, and confirm the emergency power path, whether that is a key, 9V contacts or a USB-C port.
Set the two long through-bolts snug and no tighter, because over-tightening pinches the spindle and makes the motor work against you every cycle. Replace the strike plate screws with 3 inch screws that reach the framing. Test the bolt by hand with the door shut each spring and fall.
Best for
When to choose this style
- You own the home and the existing deadbolt is already worn, loose or older than you can date.
- Several people need their own code and their own record of coming and going.
- The entry is exposed enough to justify a Grade 1 or Grade 2 rating with a full 1 inch bolt.
- You want the option of deleting the keyway entirely rather than living with a spare key in circulation.
Style comparison
Smart Deadbolt vs similar smart locks
Retrofit Deadbolt Adapter
Bolts over your existing thumbturn inside, leaving the outside cylinder and every key untouched.
Keypad Deadbolt
Opens on a numeric code alone, with no phone, no account and no radio to maintain.
Smart Lever Handle
Locks the spring latch inside the handle itself, which suits interior and secondary doors.
Shared guidance
Buying, fit and care for smart locks
Everything below applies to smart locks of any style, so it lives on the main guide rather than being repeated here.
Keep comparing
Other styles of smart locks
- Retrofit Deadbolt Adapter
- Keypad Deadbolt
- Smart Lever Handle
- Smart Mortise Lock
- Smart Padlock
- Key Lock Box
The full smart locks guide compares every style beside the product details and buying checks that help distinguish them.Read the smart locks guideor check the universal buying checklist before you decide.
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